36 Hours Sightseeing in Singapore

 

Lodging

The Port by Quarters Hostel, which I recommend. Though it’s in Boat Quay, which is seedy by Singaporean standards (think of a Cours Saleya-style tourist trap), the location is perfectly central to all sights in Singapore. The rates are affordable, breakfast is included, wifi is free and works well, lockers are secure, the rooms are air conditioned, and it’s very clean. Though marketed as “rooms,”they just have cubby-style beds, but still an upgrade in privacy and comfort from most hostel bunks. Beware that they will charge you 5% extra to pay by card, and there is a 20 SD deposit for the room key.

Nobody likes Boat Quay, but it’s near everything, and really not that seedy

My little cubby of a room in the hostel!

Transport

Singapore is a delightful city to get around. The MRT (metro) is surprisingly cheap and goes almost everywhere. I also walked around the city a lot– though it’s often boiling hot, the city is built well for pedestrians. Rather than crosswalks, there are overpasses and underpasses all over the place, which takes more time but is much less stressful than trying to cross the street.

People

English is the main language here, so Anglophones will have no problem. Some people in the service industry aren’t from Singapore and aren’t as confident with their English, but I didn’t have any major communication issues. I met a lot of extremely friendly people who wanted to know where I was from and who congratulated me for traveling alone. My impression is that this global city is extremely friendly to foreigners and they’re happy to share their home with us!

Safety

I felt extremely safe in Singapore at all hours of the day as a young woman traveling alone. There were always people out and almost all of them speak English and want to help you. I was never harassed or cat-called. If you do have any issue, I would suggest dipping into a hotel or business center lobby and asking the host for help.

I felt perfectly safe to take my expensive camera out at night by myself.

Bodily functions

Tap water is fine to drink and toilets are easy to find. Both are almost always free. Beware of getting overheated in this hot and humid city.

Running

Despite the heat and humidity, I saw many runners out at all times of day all around the city. Singapore is friendly to runners, and female solo runners should have no problem.

Fashion

Most people wear business attire, are amazingly thin, and seem un-affected by the heat. It is common for women to wear heels, but many women wear flat work shoes as well.

I noticed a lot of people wearing false contact lenses as well. Many of them didn’t even seem to be for color, since they were brown, but it had the effect of making people look a little bit like Barbie dolls. It seemed especially popular among flight attendants.

Museums

National Gallery: On a Wednesday morning in September, I was the only person in an enormous museum. Guards were eager to talk to me about the art and where I’m from. The gallery mostly hosts Asian artwork in its permanent collection, and no special exhibitions were open when I was there. Admission costs 15 Singaporean dollars for students, and is worthwhile even if their art doesn’t interest you due to the architecture. Built on the old city hall and courthouse, this building is historic while also brand new. Its atriums and rooftops provide amazing views and photo opportunities. I spent 2 hours there in total.

National Museum: As with many history/anthropology museums, it is kid-oriented and has an air of nationalist propaganda. That said, I learned a ton about the history of Singapore, and the building is beautiful. When I visited, there was an exhibition of Singaporean youth photography which I really enjoyed. For 5 Singaporean dollars for students, you have little to lose. I spent an hour there.

The student photography exhibit at the National Museum

Art Science Museum: At 25 Singaporean dollars for students to enter all the galleries, this is by far the most expensive museum– and by far my favorite museum. This architectural wonder of a museum actually houses most of its galleries underground in normal-shaped rooms. The exhibits were astoundingly well-curated and had great interdisciplinary themes. My favorite was the Big Data exhibit, which gracefully combined data science, demography, sociology, engineering, and law to make the topic accessible and intriguing for anyone. I spent two hours there.

Other sights

Southern Ridges is skippable. It’s not very organized as a tourist destination, and does not have as lovely views as promised.

Marina Bay Sands Mall is an awesome place to cool off, go to the bathroom, and fill up water. It’s also quite the spectacle.

Gardens by the Bay: I’m not that into gardens, and their best spaces were closed for repair while I was there, so I’m not one to talk. This is one of Singapore’s top attractions and you may very well love it!

Restaurants

Jai Thai has evil service, but it’s the cheapest, most authentic, and quickest Thai food outside of Thailand, so I kept coming back. Order a “small” plate, which is plenty for one person, for just 6-8 Singaporean dollars.

Ya Kun Kaya Toast: You must try the kaya toast, and you must try it here! For less than 5 SD, you get the classic Singaporean dish: Little coconut and butter toasts, dipped in runny eggs mixed with soy sauce and pepper. This may sound gross. It totally looks gross. Each dish on its own is a little gross; the toasts are too dry and sweet; the eggs are too runny and salty. But put them together and it’s MAGIC.

It may not look delicious, but I highly recommend this classic Singaporean breakfast!

Common Man Coffee: This is an upscale hipster café that reminds me of having brunch in Washington, D.C. mixed with having coffee in Portland. Though it’s on the more expensive side, I had one of my favorite meals in Singapore here, and certainly my favorite coffee. Their menu is L.A. brunch-style– anything from a kale scramble to a “Turkish man’s breakfast” (a delightful combination of fried cheese, soft boiled eggs, and hummus). It’s out of the way at Roberts Quay, so don’t bend over backwards to go there, but definitely go if you’re in the area.

“Turkish” plate

Coffee, PNW style

Everyone recommends Sarnies, an Australian sandwich place in Chinatown, but please skip it. They charge you 15 SD for a sandwich on Wonderbread.

My wonderbread sandwich at Sarnies

A few notes on eating out:

-Service fees are added at the end, so prepare for your bill to be higher than the sum of the dishes you ordered.

-Napkins are not standard at low-end restaurants. I had to ask for them; once got charged for them; and once was shown to the sink instead.

Laws

You’ve probably heard the urban legend that it’s illegal to chew gum in Singapore (unless you have a prescription from your dentist). There’s also a 500 SD fine for eating on the subway, and a death penalty for drug traffickers. Singapore seems to take their laws pretty seriously, though I did see plenty of people jaywalking.

Miscellaneous Observations

Some museums and restaurants had scented interiors. I had never experienced such a thing before, and was pleasantly surprised when it didn’t give me a headache.

I also experienced my first outdoor air conditioning. While in some ways Singapore is very environmental and progressive, it is also upscale and over-the-top. If you eat outside at a nice enough restaurant, you may experience the phenomenon of outdoor AC.

Changi Airport

Changi– the world’s most progressive airport?

My expectations were high, as this is known as one of the world’s best airport. Immigration coming into the country took forever, but there were no lines at immigration when I departed. Security is gate-by-gate rather than at the entrance of the terminal. They had all the standard food options– Starbucks, Subway, and local chains. What made this airport impressive to me was the advertised baby-changing table in the men’s restroom and the prayer room. Many public spaces could learn something about inclusiveness from Changi.

Airline Review: Flying Air Mauritius

I flew economy class on Air Mauritius from Singapore to Mauritius (7 hours) with a 15 hour stopover, then Mauritius to Reunion (45 mins) in late September. I had great experiences on both flights.

I had been warned in advance that Air Mauritius is strict about their carry-on allowance (7 kg / 15 lbs), but neither of my flights checked– not because my bag looked as small as possible, but because there was not even a scale at the gate. Most people brought small suitcases and purses/backpacks, though I’m sure almost everyone would’ve exceeded the limits if they had checked.

Other people were definitely exceeding the carry-on limit

The staff on both the flights were exceedingly kind. I don’t think I had ever before seen flight attendants genuinely enjoying each other’s company or the company of their passengers before Air Mauritius. They were also all seamlessly bilingual in English and French.

My flight from Singapore to Mauritius was full-service; complete with a meal, goody bag, blanket, pillow, and movies. The movie selection was poor and my screen didn’t work, but other people seemed to be enjoying their movies.

Not your boring ol Lufthansa goody bag

I had an overnight layover in Mauritius, so I stayed in Mahébourg, the closest city to the airport. I booked a bed at Le Bamboo Guesthouse through Hostelworld, and called them the morning of to arrange rides to and from the airport. They graciously picked me up and cooked me dinner, and then in the morning made me breakfast and took me back to the airport. They were the sweetest family– I highly recommend them if you need somewhere to stay near the airport. My night there including transportation and food cost less than 50 USD.

The view from my guesthouse in Mahébourg, Mauritius

The flight from Mauritius to Reunion was absolutely empty save for me and a symphony of crying babies at the bulkhead. I don’t know why they used such a large plane! This flight is so short that there’s scarcely time to go to the bathroom. They served fruit juice, but there was no time for a meal.

This photo was taken mid-flight. The plane was EMPTY!

The view of Reunion on my flight from Mauritius!

Some general tips on flying that apply on Air Mauritius:

-I usually choose seats closest to the front so that I can get served sooner and get off the plane faster. However, when babies travel, they sit at the bulkhead due to the bassinet thing. I happened to be in the company of a lot of babies on both my flights. If silence is important to you, consider not choosing the “best” seat.

-Ordering a special meal will get you served first, and almost never costs extra. I called the airline ahead and requested a vegetarian meal.

 

Five Days in Singapore

Singapore’s architecturally fascinating skyline from left: helix pedestrian bridge, Marina Bay Sands hotel, science museum.

Singapore is one of those places it never occurred to me to visit until I was already on my way there. My only exposure to Singapore came from its portrayal in the Pirates of the Caribbean movies, which unsurprisingly resembles the modern city in only the most limited ways. My trip came about towards the end of an epic, three-month adventure of cities and countries strung together with different friends in each place, and was the selection of a guy I barely knew who just wanted to get the closest approximation of Vegas he could find in Asia. He was disappointed: although the drinking age in Singapore is 18, gambling is illegal for anyone under 21, just like in the United States.

But it turns out there’s a lot more to this tropical island city-state than the famous Marina Bay Sands Casino, and since all he wanted to do was gamble, planning the trip was left up to me. After pouring through numerous guidebooks and chatting with a number of people who’d been there, I compiled a whirlwind four days of activities to get the most out of our stay.

Singapore may be the only country for which five days is a perfect length for tourists: for most, you can barely get a taste of what a country has to offer, and for micronations, unless your plan is to just lay on a beach, five days can feel like an eternity. In Singapore, it’s just enough time to get acquainted with the place and still leave wanting just a bit more — the formula for a well-loved memory.

I’ve always hated the implication in travel guides that the person writing them knows how fast I want to move through a museum, whether I want to eat a long lunch or snack on the run, or how much I value clubbing versus an early-morning run. So I’m not going to do that to you. Instead, I’ve compiled ten manageable half-day activities that you can mix and match as you want, plus a few different evening outings to top off your long traveler days.

Museums

Inside the National Gallery of Singapore, a sprawling art museum where the building itself is part of the art on display.

Singapore may not be known for its museums the way it is for its clubs and malls, but it has a scattered collection of museums that are free or cheap and mercifully air conditioned. No matter what you’re interested in, be it art, history, or culture, there will be a museum to your taste.

It may not feel quite like a real cloud forest, but Singapore’s version should not be missed.

Neighborhoods

Little India, described by my traveling companion from Chennai as “unnervingly like being transported to India”.

A great joy in traveling is seeing how people live in the places you visit, and Singapore’s uniquely diverse population makes wandering around neighborhoods even more rewarding than usual. If you’re looking to experience Singapore without breaking the bank, walking from neighborhood to neighborhood is the best way to do it — but you should be ready to deal with the heat. Visiting Little India and Chinatown is the best way to be reminded that you’re actually in Asia, not some strangely-polished Disneyland, but food and souvenirs in these neighborhoods are more expensive than their counterparts in their home country. Singaporean Chinese food and Indian food are both very similar to the real thing, so be prepared for a flavor overload if you’re coming from North America or Europe.

Little India, with shops selling exotic produce and spices spilling into the street and restaurants advertising food from every region in the subcontinent, should be visited during the day. It’s hottest then, but it’s also your best bet to sample the delicious snacks and meals available every few hundred feet. The majority of Singapore’s Indian population is from South India, so the most common language you’ll hear is Tamil, but if you’re in search of North Indian street food or products they won’t be too hard to find.

Chinatown is a wild maze of vendors and streetfront restaurants, all selling some variation of made-in-China chopsticks and pottery and clothing. Let yourself get lost and stumble upon temples and traditional “wet markets” , which are giant farmer’s markets selling everything from live frogs to stinky Durian fruit. Chinatown has a large hawker center that comes alive at lunchtime, and is a prime area to get the delicious local coffee specialty kopi.

 

Shopping

It’s not for nothing that Singapore’s citizenry claims shopping as a “national pastime”. From outdoor markets in Chinatown to upscale malls, it will be hard for anyone to leave Singapore without a few souvenirs.

The most internationally renowned shopping center surrounds the base of Marina Bay Sands. Here you can try on $250,000 watches and peruse the offerings of all the best luxury brands from Europe, America, and Asia, and even as a college student be treated like a customer in a way you won’t experience in other countries. Don’t abuse this privilege, but it is a unique opportunity to watch locals and travelers alike drop thousands of dollars in a single afternoon.

Cheaper souvenirs can be found in Little India or Chinatown, and mid-priced buys are scattered throughout the city. It’s hard to go a few blocks without stumbling upon another shopping center, which are mercifully airconditioned escapes from the heat midday.

Meals

Finding mid-tier meals is a bit of a challenge if you’re looking for something memorable, but the street vibe at the hawker centers that dot the city and the upscale ambience of the fine dining restaurants readily at hand neatly bookend the spectrum.ated centers, or check with your hotel/hostel for suggestions.

Every neighborhood has its own hawker center selling cheap and tasty meals and snacks from around Asia. The quality varies a lot, but generally street food is safe in Singapore. If in doubt, look for the stands with long lines. See here for top-rated centers, or check with your hotel/hostel for suggestions.

Evenings

With water easily reached from just about every part of the city, city-lights-on-a-bay photos are not hard to come by

It would be a shame to visit Singapore without barhopping at least a little, but there are other activities for night owls that don’t involve drinking, if that’s your cup of tea. The more comfortable temperatures that arrive after the sun goes down really makes Singapore come alive at night.

Supertrees lightshow in the Gardens by the Bay, a nightly spectacle that’s equally interesting from every angle

The traditional tourist hotspot for nightlife surrounds the Quays on both sides of the river — Clarke Quay and Robertson Quay together boast hundreds of restaurants and bars that could keep you going every night for weeks. And in between shots and dancing, you can pause on one of the many bridges to take in the sparkling lights. Be warned, however, that even though this is Asia, food and drink prices in these neighborhoods add up as quickly as they would in the US.

You would be remiss to skip a visit to the top of a skyscraper at night. A highlight for us was sampling the cocktails atop Marina Bay Sands; there are three bars to choose from, and you can get a free ride to the top of the hotel if you meet the dress code requirements and they reasonably think you’ll buy a drink. Alternatively, you can pay about US$25 to reach the rooftop park that rings the roof of the hotel — it’s one level lower than the bars, but the viewing deck wraps all the way around for panoramic views. Other hotels also have rooftop viewing decks, but most require you stay there to access them.

One night, we headed to the Night Safari at the zoo. It required a rather long taxi ride from the heart of the city, but we were rewarded with a bit of a respite from the crowds. This is a unique opportunity to see nocturnal animals at their own pace and a great way to experience a zoo without the oppressive heat of the day. Admission gets you access to a guided hop-on-hop-off shuttle to the various parts of the huge complex, getting you quickly between exhibits, and also to a wildlife show and firebreathing demonstration. Like most of Singapore, it’s a bit of a spectacle, but it’s definitely worth doing.

Finally, you can’t leave Singapore without watching the Supertrees come to life just after sunset. There’s a music and light show twice each evening, and when it’s over you’re perfectly positioned to head to the top of Marina Bay Sands or wander around the waterfront parks in the evening. Singapore is safe enough that walking around a night shouldn’t be a concern as long as you’re careful.